Surrounded by ancient walls, nestled in the heart of Tuscany among vineyards, olive groves, and the rolling hills of the Val d’Orcia, Siena is one of Italy’s most enchanting medieval cities and renowned wine-producing regions.
Its historic center earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 1995, recognized for its exceptional preservation of its medieval urban fabric and its architecture, which is perfectly integrated into the city’s urban layout. The city’s strategic position along the ancient Via Francigena, a vital trade route connecting northern Europe to Rome, propelled it to prominence in the 13th century, eclipsing even Florence as Tuscany’s leading city.
A bustling hub of commerce, finance, and academia, Siena witnessed the rise of powerful guilds, innovative banking practices, and a thriving artistic scene. Its architectural legacy is a testament to its glorious past, with Romanesque and Gothic masterpieces adorning the cityscape. Renowned artists like Simone Martini and the Lorenzetti brothers left an indelible mark on the city’s cultural heritage.
Siena comes alive with the vibrant colors of its 17 Contrade, the rhythmic beat of drums, and historic processions. Piazza del Campo transforms into a canvas of tufo for one of Italy‘s most evocative and characteristic events: the Palio di Siena. This medieval horse race pits the Contrade against each other twice a year, on July 2nd and August 16th, in honor of the Madonna di Provenzano and the Madonna Assunta, respectively.
Soak up the local atmosphere, and savor the region’s renowned Chianti wines, artisanal cheeses and cured meats, and traditional dishes like pappa al pomodoro and pici all’aglione. Don’t miss out on meat-based specialties such as pici with Cinta Senese ragù, ribollita, peposo, trippa, and ossobuco.
A curated selection of Siena’s finest dining establishments serving traditional cuisine with a contemporary flair.
Osteria Le Logge
Since its opening in 1977, Osteria Le Logge has been a gathering place for intellectuals, politicians, artists, gastronomes, and anyone seeking authentic and genuine cuisine. Located steps away from the UNESCO World Heritage site, Piazza del Campo, and the Logge del Papa, the osteria exudes a timeless charm.
Step inside and be transported back in time. The communal tables and interior adorned with antique glass cabinets from the historic Barblan & Riacci drugstore create an authentic atmosphere. Gianni Brunelli, the owner, has carefully preserved this traditional ambiance while infusing it with his innovative culinary vision. The result is a harmonious blend of classic Tuscan flavors and contemporary creativity, with occasional nods to the sea.
In Montalcino, Brunelli owns two vineyards, located at 200 and 350 meters above sea level respectively, producing exceptional Brunello wines that perfectly complement the restaurant’s offerings. A visit to the nearby Etruscan tunnel winery is highly recommended.
Via del Porrione, 33 – 0577 48013
Campo Cedro
Located in the heart of the Lupa district, just steps from Porta Ovile, Campo Cedro is the brainchild of Kohsuke Sugihara. Since 2018, this restaurant has challenged conventions by offering a unique fusion of Japanese culinary artistry and Italian tradition. Expect a modern take on Italian cuisine, characterized by its freshness and sophistication, encompassing bond fish dishes.
Savor the innovative blend of flavors in dishes like the oxtail and tongue terrine with provolone and turnips, or the rabbit ravioli adorned with tarragon pesto, peas, and smoked provola. For a truly unforgettable experience, try the sea bass encased in a puffed rice crust and complemented by a seaweed sauce.
Indulge in a culinary journey with the chef’s tasting menus, featuring four courses for €45 or seven courses for €70. Complement your meal with a selection from their well-curated wine list showcasing the best of Italy’s vineyards.
Via Pian d’Ovile, 54 – 0577 236027
Antica Salumeria Salvini
Just outside Siena’s historic walls, in the ancient district of Costafabbri, overlooking the Romanesque-Gothic Duomo and the rolling hills of the Sienese countryside, one encounters L’Antica Salumeria Salvini, owned by the Ciofi family. Established in 1931, it is the oldest salumeria in the province, where the authentic flavors of the region fill the air. The Cinta Senese and Grillo Senese hams, produced on-site, are accompanied by a wide variety of local delicacies.
The Osteria, seating 30 people indoors and outdoors, offers delectable charcuterie and artisanal cheese boards, as well as hearty home-cooked dishes based on traditional recipes. Curated by Pietro Ciofì, the wine list boasts an impressive selection of 250 labels, including both domestic and international wines, with a particular focus on Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Nobile di Montepulciano, and Champagne.
S.S. 73 Ponente, 46 – 0577 39439
Particolare di Siena
Beyond the city walls, a short distance from Porta Ovile, Marco Gagliardi stands out in the Sienese culinary scene with his sustainable approach to cooking. With a limited number of covers, a biodynamic vegetable garden, and locally sourced ingredients, his restaurant offers a unique dining experience. his restaurant showcases the best of Tuscan terroir in a sustainable way.
On the menu, don’t miss the red shrimp with ricotta, roasted cherry tomatoes, basil, and lemon, or the lamb rack with dried fruit, artichokes, spring onion, marjoram, and wine reduction.
The restaurant’s interior is understated yet sophisticated, combining industrial materials with the Sienese tuff stone of the underground dining room and adjacent cellar. Legend has it that these spaces were once used as stables for sheep in the Middle Ages.
For a truly special experience, guests can book a Chef’s Table and watch the kitchen team prepare their meal.
In the summer, diners can eat outdoors in a garden that offers stunning views of the crenellated medieval walls. A visit to the well-stocked underground cellar is highly recommended.
via B. Peruzzi, 26 – 339 8275430
Osteria Permalico
Permalico is a quintessential old-world osteria where one can savor delicious food at affordable prices. Overlooking the Pinacoteca Nazionale, not far from Piazza del Campo and the Duomo, Armando Ballerini runs both the kitchen and the dining room. The menu showcases the heart of Sienese and Tuscan gastronomy, with some revisiting such as Chianti tuna, cooked at a low temperature, pan-seared and served a crispy bread base with aromatic oil and raw onion, or ricotta gnocchi.
A genuine cuisine is the hallmark of Permalico, thanks to a rigorous selection of local suppliers. Meats and cheeses hail exclusively from nearby producers, while fresh vegetables are sourced from Siena’s community garden.
Must-try dishes include Permalico’s signature pici pasta with egg, Tuscan pecorino, and rigatino; tagliatelle with rich Cinta Senese ragu; and hearty options like pork liver and tripe. To conclude your meal on a sweet note, indulge in a crumbly ricotta and chocolate dessert, a delicate ricotta mousse with cantucci crumble, or classic cantucci paired with Vin Santo gel.
The wine list boasts 70 labels, showcasing both national and international selections with a strong emphasis on Tuscan varietals.
Via Costa Larga, 4 – 0577 41105
Gallo Nero
In the historic Dimora Casatorre dei Leoni, housed in a 1270 building among Siena’s most notable structures, Il Gallo Nero has successfully preserved the charm of medieval times through meticulous restoration. The interior halls and exterior facade feature stained-glass windows inspired by Duccio di Buoninsegna‘s designs, while the sign faithfully replicates a 15th-century innkeeper‘s creation.
The kitchen is helmed by Giovanni D’Ecclesiis and his team, where a balanced blend of traditional Sienese flavors and contemporary contrasts creates a truly delectable and complex dining experience. The focus on high-quality ingredients, sourced from small local producers, is evident in the restaurant’s fresh, handmade pasta and daily-baked bread made with sourdough starter. Even those with dietary restrictions can indulge in delicious cuisine, thanks to the restaurant’s extensive range of gluten-free pasta options.
A visit to the Etruscan grotto and the medieval well, part of the Sienese hydraulic system, located within the Gallo Nero, is highly recommended.
Via del Porrione, 65-67 – 0577 284356 – 320 0707839
All’Orto de’ Pecci
Overlooking the majestic Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia, this former homestead invites a tranquil escape for lunch, surrounded by lush greenery and farm animals, surprisingly located in the heart of Siena.
Managed by a social cooperative, the restaurant offers employment opportunities to those in need. Service, cover, and bread are a gift from the house. The menu follows the seasons and guarantees the freshness of the products from the organic vegetable garden. The cuisine is typically Sienese, with some variations. To try are pappa col pomodoro and pici with sausage ragù.
Via Porta Giustizia, 39 – 0577 22220